GROWING DAYLILIES - AN EASY-CARE, HIGH-IMPACT PERENNIAL

Photo by: Sarycheva Olesia / Shutterstock.

When to plant:

Container-grown or bareroot daylilies can be planted in spring or no later than 6 weeks before the first frost in autumn. In mild climates, they can be planted in summer. They’ll take about a year to establish themselves and then will spread quickly, forming dense clumps.

Where to plant: :

For best blooming, plant in an area that will receive at least 6 hours of sun. They will tolerate poor soil quality, but not poor drainage, so make sure the site drains well. Daylilies are one of few plants that can be planted under black walnut trees because they are not affected by the chemical juglone that is leached into the soil by the tree.

How to plant:

When transplanting daylilies, either container-grown or bare-root, dig a hole deep enough so that the crown of the plant will be at the same height as originally grown. A band of white at the base of the foliage indicates what part was underground. A high-phosphorus fertilizer can be added to speed growth. Keep newly planted daylilies watered well. Mulch can be added to help hold in moisture.

Daylilies aren’t usually grown from seed by gardeners, as they rarely come true—meaning, have the same characteristics as the parent plant.

For more information on planting bulbs, read Bulbs 101.

Watering:

They will perform best with consistent watering—about 1 inch per day. It is important to water plants regularly in spring when scapes and buds are forming and also while blooming. Some varieties can tolerate drought better than others.

Soil:

Daylilies prefer moist, average to rich, well-drained soil. They will tolerate poor soil, but won’t tolerate poor drainage.

Amendments & fertilizer:

Daylilies benefit from a balanced fertilizer and appreciate some extra nitrogen in the spring. Fertilizing once or twice during the growing season (spring) and once in fall will encourage strong growth, larger bloom size, and winter hardiness.

Deadheading:

Remove spent blooms regularly to keep them looking their best. To avoid seed pods from forming, make sure you are getting the entire flower and not just the petals. Deadheading is critical for subsequent flowering in reblooming types. Some say that because of the number of blooms they produce and the fact that they only last one day, deadheading can be a lot of work. (Note: Be careful with the darker purple varieties, they can stain your hands or clothes.)

Foliage maintenance:

Remove yellowed or dead foliage from the base by grasping firmly and giving a quick tug. After all blooming is done, plants can be sheared to the level of new growth or 6 to 8 inches from the ground and stems cut back to the base. Keep them watered well and you’ll get decent regrowth in 2 to 4 weeks.

For reblooming types, simply removing dead or yellowed leaves is preferred over shearing because new flower stalks may be cut off. In mild climates, plants may remain semi-evergreen, and cutting back should be done in early spring before flower stalks appear.

Dividing:

Sparse flowering can be a sign of overcrowding. Dig up and divide clumps every 3 to 4 years, or every 2 years for reblooming types. Carefully dig them up in early spring before blooming or late summer after blooming. Cut or pull the crowns apart carefully, being sure to include 2 or 3 fans of leaves and a portion of the root system with each clump. Replant these divisions 12 to 18 inches apart and at the same depth they were growing, and water them in well.

Pests & diseases:

Although seldom bothered by pests, aphids, spider mites or thrips may attack flower buds or foliage. Slugs and snails can also be attracted to tender foliage. If daylily rust (a fungus that damages foliage) is a problem, you may want to consult a local nursery for rust-resistant types to grow in your area.