Baptisia Plant Guide: Growing & Caring for False Indigo

Decadence® 'Lemon Meringue' false indigo (Baptisia hybrid). Photo by Proven Winners.

When to plant:

Any time during the growing season, although plants will get off to a better start and require less watering if you get them in the ground in early spring or wait until cooler fall weather.

Spacing:

Typically 3 to 4 feet apart, depending on their spread at maturity. Plants can take years to reach their full size, but don’t be tempted to space them close together. Baptisias form a deep root system, so they are difficult to move once established.

Is Baptisia invasive?

Although it's not classified as invasive, Baptisia is sometimes incorrectly referred to as invasive because it is difficult to remove due to its deep root system. A true invasive plant is one that causes ecological harm in a new environment where it's not native, which is not the case for Baptisia.

Soil:

Average, well-draining soil that is slightly acidic

Watering:

Keep soil evenly moist until plants become established. Once they take root, they are very drought-tolerant thanks to their extensive root system.

Pruning and deadheading:

Baptisias will rarely rebloom if deadheaded, and doing so will prevent the development of the attractive seedpods. However, you can cut back plants by as much as a third in midsummer to shape them to your liking, just as you would when pruning shrubs. If you want seedpods to form, forego extensive pruning and let your plants go to seed. You do not need to prune back Baptisia in the fall.

Dividing:

Because mature baptisias have thick, long taproots, they don’t fare well if you try to uproot and divide them. Transplanting and dividing is best done while your plants are still young. If you must divide them, wait until spring and dig deeply to avoid cutting into the root system.

Fertilizing:

No need. Because they are legumes, baptisias supply their own fertilizer through the nitrogen-fixing bacteria on their roots (see All About Roots).

Support:

Baptisias don't normally require staking, but may need some support if they're grown in partial shade. If your plants tend to flop, secure them to a peony ring or other support in early spring.

End-of-season care:

Cut your plants back to the ground after the first hard frost in fall or before new growth emerges in the spring. The frost-nipped foliage will blacken, but the attractive seed pods add interest to the winter garden.

Baptisia is right at home in cottage gardens, meadow and native plant gardens, as well as pollinator gardens. There are many ways to use baptisia, and here are a few suggestions:

• Hedge
• Mass planting
• Specimen plant
• At the back of beds and borders.
• Add to a cut-flower garden for long-lasting indoor bouquets. The seed pods in fall can be enjoyed in dried flower arrangements.

What to plant with Baptisia

Baptisia provides blooms from late spring to summer, so pair it with plants that begin blooming in early spring or late summer and into fall.

• Echinacea purpurea, which has a long bloom time lasting from April through September, would look fabulous planted in front of Baptisia—it sits a little lower, reaching about 1 to 3 feet tall.
• Bulbs that bloom in early spring—such as daffodils, tulips, snowdrops, and irises—can add a pop of color before Baptisia begins it show.
• Asters, which begin their stunning floral disaply in late summer and into fall, will begin blooming as Baptisia seedheads begin to form.
• Roses and Baptisia are a winning combination—when Baptisia isn't blooming, roses add pops of color at various times of year. And when roses aren't blooming, Baptisia's foliage offers something interesting to look at.