When you know the basics of pruning roses, even inexperienced gardeners can achieve beautiful results. Don’t be intimidated by pruning—the rules and warnings are mainly for those who grow roses for specimens or exhibits. But for the casual gardener who simply wants beautiful, healthy rose bushes, there are really only a few fundamentals to follow.


Bypass shears are ideal for pruning roses — their overlapping blades make a clean cut. Photo by: Fotoschab | Dreamstime.com.

  • Good gloves
    Gauntlet-style recommended for extra protection up your forearm.
  • Bypass shears, not anvil
    Bypass blades overlap and make a clean cut; anvil blades meet and can crush or damage canes.
  • Heavy long sleeves
    The right clothing will prevent getting “bit” by the thorns.


The best time to prune your roses is in early spring just as they break dormancy. Photo by: Darkop | Dreamstime.com.

  • Pruning should be done in early spring, after the last frost in colder climates.
  • You can also let the roses tell you — when they start to bud or leaf out, it’s time.
  • Longer stems can be trimmed back in autumn to keep them from snapping in winter storms.


Dead flowers can be cut back at any time in summer. Carl Bennett, longtime Rose Breeding Manager of David Austin Roses, says that during the flowering season, deadheading will encourage more blooms and maintain an attractive shrub.


“Modern roses don’t need as much pruning as most people think,” says Christian Bedard, research director for Weeks Roses. Follow these steps to ensure your roses will thrive.

1. Remove all remaining leaves.

This allows you to see the structure of the bush and clearly see all the canes (stems). This step also removes any pests or diseases that may have been hiding over winter in the foliage.

2. Start with dead wood.

How do you know its dead? Cut into it — brown is dead, green is living. Cut any dead wood back to the base.

3. Open up the center of the plant.

Take out crossing branches which can rub, causing damage and encouraging disease. The goal is to have upward-reaching branches with an open structure in a vase-like shape.

When pruning roses, your goal should be to open up the center and create a vase-like shape. Photo by: Avalon/Photoshot License / Alamy Stock Photo.

4. Remove any thin, weak growth.

The basic rule of thumb is to remove anything thinner than a pencil.

5. Prune the remaining canes.

Prune by cutting 1/4” to 1/2” above an outward-facing bud eye (a small bump found where a leaf would meet the stem). New stems grow in the direction of the bud and the goal is to encourage them to grow outward, not inward. Make cuts at a 45-degree angle sloping away from the bud, allowing water to run off.

6. Clean up.

After pruning, make sure to clean up the surrounding area underneath. All leaves and cut branches should be disposed of as diseases and pests could be lurking.

7. Feed your roses.

Roses are “big eaters” and need proper nutrition, so feed them with a long-lasting fertilizer.


Pruning height:

Prune to the height you want your rose bush to be, keeping a fairly consistent height throughout. If it is in the back of a border, leave it a little higher; for the front of a border, trim lower. For hybrid teas in particular, the lower you prune, the bigger the flower and longer the stem — good for cutting and exhibiting. Leave them a little taller and you will tend to get more blooms, although smaller and on shorter stems.

Climbing roses:

Most of the same rules apply to climbing roses but there are a few differences, mainly the way that climbers grow. Climbing roses have 2 types of canes, main and lateral. The main canes come directly from the base and should never be pruned. Climbers put their energy into growing first and flowering second. Therefore, if energy is spent on regrowth of the main canes, it will not flower. The lateral canes are the ones that produce the flowers and pruning these will encourage blooming. There’s no need to fuss about pruning to the outward-facing buds, as shaping climbing roses in this way is unnecessary. Lateral canes can be pruned anytime of the year to keep the climber in shape. For more information, see: Pruning Climbing Roses.

Knock Out Roses:

Just like climbing roses, pruning rules for Knock Outs are similar, but with a few exceptions. Knock Outs are generally ready for their first pruning in their second or third season, after reaching a mature height of 3-4 feet. The timing of pruning is the same as other roses, in late winter or early spring when buds start to form. Knock Outs bloom on new growth, so old, dead, or broken canes should be the first to go, cutting them back to the base. Overall, Knock Outs can be taken back by about 1/3 of their height, keeping in mind overall finished shape. Knock Outs tend to grow in phases (bloom - rest - bloom). If a mid-season trim is in order, it is best done following a blooming period while in the resting phase. Deadheading will also help to stimulate new bloom clusters and overall growth. Knock Outs tend to produce a lot of rose hips that inhibit flowering (triggering dormancy), so trimming these off will keep your Knock Out blooming.

In warmer climates, leaving the rose hips on through fall and winter helps trigger dormancy.

Rose hips:

Leave rose hips (the small, round, orange or red fruit produced after pollination of the flowers) on through the fall and winter, they tell the rose it’s time for dormancy. In colder climates, roses are naturally triggered to go dormant, but in warmer climates they may need this prodding. Instead of deadheading the last blooms of the season, simply remove the petals, allowing the rose hips to form and trigger dormancy.

Pruning is vital to the health of the rose bush, it helps prevent disease by removing areas that may harbor infestations and also encourages flowering. Your roses may look stark after a good pruning, but roses grow very prolifically and will fill in quickly. It’s almost impossible to kill a rose bush by over-pruning. Following these few simple rules will ensure your roses are happy, healthy, and will provide you with a season of beautiful blossoms.

Rose Care for Beginners
Pruning Hydrangeas
How to Prune Shrubs & Perennials

Free Weekly NewsletterSign up for weekly gardening inspiration and design tips

Join thousands of design-conscious readers for exclusive offers, gardening inspiration and innovative design solutions for enjoying outdoor spaces.

* Required Fields
We will never sell or distribute your email to any other parties or organizations.

More about the newsletter

Come on a journey with us! Explore amazing gardens, view beautiful plants, and gain insights from the world’s best designers. Click on the issue to preview its contents.

Winter 2018 - Issue 201Winter 2018 - Issue 201
Follow Us Garden Design Magazine Facebook Garden Design Magazine Twitter Garden Design Magazine Google Plus Garden Design Magazine Pinterest Garden Design Magazine Instagram Garden Design Magazine Youtube

Not Ready to Commit to a Subscription?

Try an issue of Garden Design magazine for free (we know you’ll love it)! Just pay $4.95 for shipping and handling.

With our free single-issue trial order, we will send you a copy of the Autumn 2017 issue of Garden Design. Offer only available in the United States, and one per household.

Get your free issue!