Recipes from Ellen Ecker Ogden

In her 400-square-foot garden, Ellen Ecker Ogden grows fresh ingredients to enjoy all year long. Here are four of her recipes.

PEAR-APPLE TARTE TATIN WITH CRANBERRY GLAZE
VERMONT MAPLE TOMATO SALSA
ROSEHIP AND CITRUS MARMALADE
ROASTED CARROT AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

PEAR-APPLE TARTE TATIN WITH CRANBERRY GLAZE

Photo by: Matthew Benson.

This fruit tart bakes upside down, with a single three-grain piecrust on top, keeping the fruit filling moist during cooking—without the extra calories of a second crust. Flip the hot tart onto a plate and then glaze with a cranberry jelly to serve.

Makes one 9-inch tart

Prep time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the piecrust

• ½ cup quick-cooking oats
• ½ cup cornmeal
• 1cup flour plus ¼ cup (for rolling the dough)
• ½ tsp salt
• 1 stick (8 Tbsp) butter
• ½ cup low-fat yogurt
• 1 egg yolk

For the fruit filling

• 4 ‘Bosc’ pears, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices (approximately 3 cups)
• 4 ‘Cortland’ apples, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices (approximately 3 cups)
• ½ cup dried cranberries
• ½ cup sugar
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• 2 lemons, quartered
• ½ tsp ground ginger
• 2 Tbsp butter
• ¼ cup honey
• 1 Tbsp brown sugar
• 2 Tbsp cranberry jelly

Instructions

1. For the piecrust, combine the oats, cornmeal, flour, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, and pulse until blended.
2. Add the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, then add the yogurt and the egg yolk and mix until the dough forms a ball, about 30 seconds. Knead lightly until smooth and glossy with extra flour if necessary.
3. Press the dough into a flat 5-inch circle with the palm of your hand. Wrap it in waxed paper and chill it while you prepare the filling.
4. For the filling: place the sliced pears, apples, and dried cranberries into a large bowl.
5. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups of water to a boil, add the sugar, and simmer until sugar has dissolved.
6. Stir in the cinnamon, lemons, and ground ginger and boil for about 1 minute.
7. Turn off the heat and pour the sugar syrup over the fruit in the bowl. Allow to sit at room temperature for 1 hour.
8. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
9. In a 9-inch ovenproof Dutch oven or deep skillet, heat the butter, honey, and brown sugar until the butter melts. Swirl together with a spoon to blend, then remove from heat.
10. Starting at the center of the Dutch oven or skillet, form a pinwheel with the apples and pears, adding additional concentric circles until all the slices have been added. Spoon the cranberries onto the slices and set aside the rest of the sugar syrup.
11. Remove the pie dough from the refrigerator; allow it to sit at room temperature for 5 minutes.
12. Lightly flour a large wooden board or marble pastry stone, then roll the dough into a 12-inch-diameter circle about ¼-inch thick, turning the dough frequently to keep it from sticking to the board.
13. Fold the dough in half and gently unfold it over the top of the fruit. With your fingers or the back of a wooden spoon, press the edges of the crust against the sides of the pan.
14. Prick the top of the crust with a fork and place the pie in a hot oven. Bake for 30 minutes.
15. Remove from the oven and allow the pie to cool for 10 minutes.
16. With a butter knife, release the edges of the pie. Fit a 9-inch plate over the top of the pan and invert the pie onto the plate—you may need to lightly shake the pan to release it.
17. In a small saucepan, heat 2 heaping tablespoons of cranberry jelly with ¼ cup of the sugar syrup and simmer for 1 minute. Spoon or brush over the top of the pie. Serve warm.

VERMONT MAPLE TOMATO SALSA

Photo by: Matthew Benson.

As New Englander, I am a wimp when it comes to hot peppers. Yet every now and again I like hot spicy food. In this recipe I suggest cayenne, which is not too hot, that provides a nice counterpoint to the sweet maple syrup and the tangy cilantro and cumin. If you prefer a hotter pepper, substitute with a habanero and a jalapeno.

This recipe makes more than you will need for one sitting, so plan to share it with friends and send them home with leftovers (or can it in jars for use at a later date if you are so inclined!). When fresh, it will keep for a week in the refrigerator. When canned, it will keep for a year.

Makes 8 cups

Ingredients

• 6 medium-size ripe tomatoes (3 pounds)
• 2 medium onions, finely diced (about 2 cups)
• 2 sweet green peppers, seeded and diced
• 3 green cayenne hot peppers, seeded and finely minced (approximately ¼ cup) (Be careful not to touch your eyes or your face and clean the cutting board and knife carefully when done.)
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• ¼ cup fresh dill, chopped
• ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped
• ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped
• 1 lemon
• 1 lime
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• ⅓ cup Vermont maple syrup
• 2 Tbsp soy sauce

Instructions

1. Trim the tops off the tomatoes and gently squeeze out the juice and the seeds from the interior cavities.
2. Discard the insides and coarsely chop the tomato flesh into ½-inch pieces. There should be about 5 cups of chopped tomatoes. Place in a large mixing bowl.
3. Add the diced onions, and diced sweet peppers, finely minced Cayenne hot peppers, and minced garlic to the tomatoes.
4. Add the herbs, juice from the lemon and the lime, the salt, cumin, and pour in the maple syrup and soy sauce. Mix together well, taste, and add seasoning if needed. You may need to drain some of the liquid from the salsa that has accumulated overnight.

ROSEHIP AND CITRUS MARMALADE

Photo by: David Barnum.

This marmalade gets its spreadable consistency from natural pectins in oranges, lemons, and apples, and their peels, plus an extra boost of vitamin C. It takes a bit of time to prepare the rose hips (it’s not as easy as making strawberry or blueberry jam), yet the end result is worth it. You’ll need 6 pint-size canning jars.

Makes 6 pints

Prep time: 45 minutes

Note about rosehips: Rosehips are the berries that form on Rosa rugosa plants after the flowers bloom, usually in late summer. Allow them to ripen to a deep red before harvesting

Ingredients

• 6 cups ripe rose hips (enough for 4 cups trimmed)
• 1 whole orange
• 1 whole lemon
• 1 (small) green apple
• 6 cups water
• 5 cups sugar
• ½ tsp butter

Instructions

1. To prepare the rose hips, trim off the blossom ends, discard the blossoms, and cut the hips in half. Scrape out the seeds and discard. Roughly chop; you should have about 4 cups of clean, chopped rose hips.
2. Cut both ends off the orange and lemon and discard. Slice the fruit lengthwise into wedges and remove any seeds, then cut each wedge in half to make bite-sized triangles. Keep the peels intact, as they contain the highest concentrations of pectin.
3. Grate the apple with a cheese grater, peel included.
4. In a deep 8-quart stockpot, combine the rose hips, orange, lemon, and apple; add the water and bring the mixture to a boil. Simmer at a light boil for about 30 minutes, or until the fruit becomes soft and can be cut without resistance. Turn off the heat.
5. Add the sugar and stir into the hips with a wooden spoon. Return the heat to high, and keep stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
6. Add the butter (which reduces foam), reduce the heat slightly, and continue to cook over medium high until the jam reaches 220° on a jelly thermometer. This may take 15 minutes. Do not overcook, as it will give the marmalade an odd taste.
7. Ladle the jam into hot, sterilized canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch gap at the top. With a wet cloth, wipe the jars clean and close with hot, sterilized lids. Flip over to fully seal jar lids, then flip back upright after 10 minutes. As the jars cool, you will hear a popping sound that indicates the lids are fully sealed. Store in a cool, dark place.

ROASTED CARROT AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

Photo by: Matthew Benson.

Roasting vegetables before adding them to soup results in deeper flavors and a shorter cooking time. Garnish with crème fraîche or yogurt flavored with fresh cilantro and lime.

Makes 8 cups

Prep time: 45 minutes

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

For the soup

• 1 tsp vegetable oil
• 6 medium carrots, scrubbed
• 2 medium shallots, peeled and quartered
• 1 medium butternut squash, cut into quarters lengthwise
• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• 2 Tbsp unsalted butter
• 2 tsp minced garlic (2 cloves)
• 1 cup onion, coarsely chopped (1 onion)
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 Tbsp freshly grated ginger
• ½ tsp turmeric
• 1 tsp curry powder
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 4 cups vegetable stock
• 2 cups water

Garnish:

• 5 sprigs fresh cilantro
• ½ cup crème fraîche or whole-milk yogurt
• Zest of 1 lime

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Lightly oil a 13 x 9-inch shallow baking dish and spread the cut carrots, shallots, and squash in a single layer. Roast for 30 minutes.
3. With a fork or tongs, transfer the carrots and shallots to a cutting board (they will bake faster than the squash), then continue baking the squash for another 15 minutes until soft.
4. Cool the squash slightly, then scoop out the seeds and separate the flesh from the skin.
5. Meanwhile, in a 4-quart stockpot, heat the olive oil and butter over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, and salt. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened.
6. Stir in the ginger, turmeric, curry powder, and black pepper. Cook for 5 minutes to release the fragrant oils from the spices.
7. Slice the carrots into 1-inch lengths, coarsely chop the shallots, and add both to the stock pot, along with the squash. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, so the vegetables absorb all the flavors.
8. Pour in the vegetable stock and water, and adjust the heat to simmer the soup for about 25 minutes, until everything is tender. Test for doneness by spearing the larger pieces with a sharp knife.
9. Remove from the heat and purée with an immersion blender or in a blender or food processor to a smooth consistency. Serve hot.
10. For the garnish, chop the cilantro leaves and combine with the crème fraiche or yogurt and the lime zest. Drop a large tablespoonful in the center of each bowl of hot soup just before serving.

This bonus content accompanies “The Kitchen Garden Grows Up”—an article about three gardeners who have embraced food growing as a way of life (Matthew Benson, Ellen Ecker Ogden, and Peter Jacobsen)—in the Winter 2018 issue of Garden Design magazine.