GARDEN DESIGN Water Gardening

They’re murky and mucky, finicky, fishy-smelling money pits — or are they? Too many of us dream about the undeniable charm a fountain, pond or stream would add to our garden, but the myths about maintenance and money keep us from taking the plunge. The image of multicolored koi playing peekaboo in the shimmering spaces between lily pads is alluring, but the idea of dealing with algae and fish feeding stops us dead.

Stop thinking and start digging. The explosion in the popularity of water gardening has spawned a mini-industry of products and professionals who can help keep your dream from becoming a black hole. Improvements in filters, fish foods and fixtures mean lower initial cost and less maintenance. And they mean the thought of slinging a hammock next to a burbling rill — rather than spending your weekend raking in waders — is reality.

SITE RIGHT
Visibility and accessibility are the keys to placement. You want to be able to see and hear the water, to be near it, as much as possible. Survey your garden. Where do you spend most of your time? Look from the inside, and then walk into the house and think about the sight lines from inside. Is there a bay window in your living room begging for a glimpse of a rocky bend? Maybe you have a terrace off the bedroom where you could take coffee while contemplating a waterfall. While the “most obvious” place for the water feature may indeed be the best, try several different locations, if only to satisfy yourself that your first instinct was correct. To help visualize, take a garden hose and lay it out in the shape of your proposed pond or stream, and then view it from a variety of angles. Stay away from trees, if possible, and don’t build downwind of deciduous trees that can drop leaves into the water. Especially avoid trees with poisonous leaves such as willow, elder, poplar, yew, oak and oleander.

IT’S ALIVE
As you imagine the water, imagine also the variety of life it will bring to your back yard. Unless you’re installing a fountain in a clear, chlorinated basin, remember that your water feature is a mini-environment. Moving water can attract a variety of birds, and in fact there are misters designed to bring in hummingbirds. Floating lilies are iconic, and they’re more than just pretty: they help maintain a healthy environment for fish. Before settling on the design and placement, visit the Web sites of the pond supply companies and get a picture of the plants and animals you hope to attract. Put that into the mental image of your water feature and see whether that changes your idea of the size, shape or location.

SUNNY SIDE UP
Your water feature is just as sensitive to sunlight as your terrestrial beds. Too much sun encourages algae growth; too little and your aquatic plants may not achieve their full potential. Ideally, it’s best if you can place a pond where it will get six hours of sunlight a day. Less than four hours of sun and you’ll have less vigorous plant growth (including less algae); more than eight and you’ll need to think about controlling algae.

SIZE MATTERS
While bigger isn’t always better — like anything else your water feature needs to be in scale with the landscape — it’s surprising how diminutive something big enough to park two or three cars on can look. The difference in the cost and effort of maintenance between a 50,000-gallon pond and a 25,000-gallon pond one isn’t two to one; the larger one is less money and less labor per gallon. When it comes to enjoyment, however, bigger often is better. Think about putting in the largest feature your garden (and your budget) can support. Having a water source spill into a stream that winds through the garden is a good way to “extend” the water feature without having an over-large pool or pond. It also allows for beds along the banks and affords multiple sight lines and more opportunities for benches or seating areas.

To create a stable environment, you’ll need a surface area of at least 30 square feet. Depth makes a difference too, and if you live in a zone where it freezes in winter, you’ll need a depth of at least 24 inches (preferably 36 inches) if you intend to leave your fish in the pond over the winter.

POWER AND WATER
If you don’t have electricity near the site you’ve selected, you’ll need to get it there. It’s not expensive to have an electrician bury a cable connected to a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). Unless you’re able to reach an existing GFCI outlet with the power cord that comes with the pump that will supply your water feature, this is the only acceptable solution. It’s not critical to have a hose bib immediately next to your fountain or pond; you can always stretch a hose from another location when you need to fill. However, it is convenient to have water close at hand if possible.

BE KOI
One of the joys of a water garden is enjoying the life it supports. Koi — the multicolored carp found in many garden ponds — are actually very hardy and are easy to keep. The average koi will live 25 to 35 years, with some living much longer. Growth is governed in part by the size of their pond; for the carp to reach two feet in length, you’ll need a pond at least four feet deep. In addition, the fish need about 10 gallons of water volume per linear inch of fish you keep. If your carp are to reach 24 inches and you want to have ten of them, that’s 240 linear inches of fish, and you should have at least 240 inches x 10 gallons (2,400 gallons) of water in your pond.

CRYSTAL-CLEAR
Modern low-maintenance filters and biocides are available that will keep your pond, stream or fountain from turning into the Black Lagoon. While there is some algae present in natural water, using an appropriately sized pump and filter equipped with an ultraviolet light will keep the water from going totally green. By passing the circulating water in front of the UV, many of the algae will be killed. The filter can then take the dead algae out of circulation. Small pads of barley straw, long used by farmers to keep natural ponds clear, are now being sold for use in water gardens. As the straw breaks down, it releases a substance that inhibits the growth of algae but is not harmful to fish and wildlife.

THE WATER’S FINE
The Web sites of various pond supply companies are an excellent source of information about building and keeping ponds, fountains, streams and other water features. In addition, most will help you via e-mail with thorny questions or unique design challenges. With a little bit of research, you should be able to find all of the solutions you’ve been looking for.

Published GD May/June 2004 issue

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Adding the soothing sound of a stream, fountain or pond is easier than you think! They’re murky and mucky, finicky, fishy-smelling money pits — or are they? Too many of us dream about the undeniable charm a fountain, pond or stream would add to our garden, but the myths about maintenance and money keep us from taking the plunge. The image of multicolored koi playing peekaboo in the shimmering spaces between lily pads is alluring, but the idea of dealing with algae and fish feeding stops us dead. Stop thinking and start digging. The explosion in the popularity of water gardening has spawned a mini-industry of products and professionals who can help keep your dream from becoming a black hole. Improvements in filters, fish foods and fixtures mean lower initial cost and less maintenance. And they mean the thought of slinging a hammock next to a burbling rill — rather than spending your weekend raking in waders — is reality. SITE RIGHT Visibility and accessibility are the keys to placement. You want to be able to see and hear the water, to be near it, as much as possible. Survey your garden. Where do you spend most of your time? Look from the inside, and then walk into the house and think about the sight lines from inside. Is there a bay window in your living room begging for a glimpse of a rocky bend? Maybe you have a terrace off the bedroom where you could take coffee while contemplating a waterfall. While the “most obvious” place for the water feature may indeed be the best, try several different locations, if only to satisfy yourself that your first instinct was correct. To help visualize, take a garden hose and lay it out in the shape of your proposed pond or stream, and then view it from a variety of angles. Stay away from trees, if possible, and don’t build downwind of deciduous trees that can drop leaves into the water. Especially avoid trees with poisonous leaves such as willow, elder, poplar, yew, oak and oleander. IT’S ALIVE As you imagine the water, imagine also the variety of life it will bring to your back yard. Unless you’re installing a fountain in a clear, chlorinated basin, remember that your water feature is a mini-environment. Moving water can attract a variety of birds, and in fact there are misters designed to bring in hummingbirds. Floating lilies are iconic, and they’re more than just pretty: they help maintain a healthy environment for fish. Before settling on the design and placement, visit the Web sites of the pond supply companies and get a picture of the plants and animals you hope to attract. Put that into the mental image of your water feature and see whether that changes your idea of the size, shape or location. SUNNY SIDE UP Your water feature is just as sensitive to sunlight as your terrestrial beds. Too much sun encourages algae growth; too little and your aquatic plants may not achieve their full potential. Ideally, it’s best if you can place a pond where it will get six hours of sunlight a day. Less than four hours of sun and you’ll have less vigorous plant growth (including less algae); more than eight and you’ll need to think about controlling algae. SIZE MATTERS While bigger isn’t always better — like anything else your water feature needs to be in scale with the landscape — it’s surprising how diminutive something big enough to park two or three cars on can look. The difference in the cost and effort of maintenance between a 50,000-gallon pond and a 25,000-gallon pond one isn’t two to one; the larger one is less money and less labor per gallon. When it comes to enjoyment, however, bigger often is better. Think about putting in the largest feature your garden (and your budget) can support. Having a water source spill into a stream that winds through the garden is a good way to “extend” the water feature without having an over-large pool or pond. It also allows for beds along the banks and affords multiple sight lines and more opportunities for benches or seating areas. To create a stable environment, you’ll need a surface area of at least 30 square feet. Depth makes a difference too, and if you live in a zone where it freezes in winter, you’ll need a depth of at least 24 inches (preferably 36 inches) if you intend to leave your fish in the pond over the winter. POWER AND WATER If you don’t have electricity near the site you’ve selected, you’ll need to get it there. It’s not expensive to have an electrician bury a cable connected to a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). Unless you’re able to reach an existing GFCI outlet with the power cord that comes with the pump that will supply your water feature, this is the only acceptable solution. It’s not critical to have a hose bib immediately next to your fountain or pond; you can always stretch a hose from another location when you need to fill. However, it is convenient to have water close at hand if possible. BE KOI One of the joys of a water garden is enjoying the life it supports. Koi — the multicolored carp found in many garden ponds — are actually very hardy and are easy to keep. The average koi will live 25 to 35 years, with some living much longer. Growth is governed in part by the size of their pond; for the carp to reach two feet in length, you’ll need a pond at least four feet deep. In addition, the fish need about 10 gallons of water volume per linear inch of fish you keep. If your carp are to reach 24 inches and you want to have ten of them, that’s 240 linear inches of fish, and you should have at least 240 inches x 10 gallons (2,400 gallons) of water in your pond. CRYSTAL-CLEAR Modern low-maintenance filters and biocides are available that will keep your pond, stream or fountain from turning into the Black Lagoon. While there is some algae present in natural water, using an appropriately sized pump and filter equipped with an ultraviolet light will keep the water from going totally green. By passing the circulating water in front of the UV, many of the algae will be killed. The filter can then take the dead algae out of circulation. Small pads of barley straw, long used by farmers to keep natural ponds clear, are now being sold for use in water gardens. As the straw breaks down, it releases a substance that inhibits the growth of algae but is not harmful to fish and wildlife. THE WATER’S FINE The Web sites of various pond supply companies are an excellent source of information about building and keeping ponds, fountains, streams and other water features. In addition, most will help you via e-mail with thorny questions or unique design challenges. With a little bit of research, you should be able to find all of the solutions you’ve been looking for. Published GD May/June 2004 issue		VISIT OUR SPONSORS